Sète, the deepest port in the Mediterranean, is in the process of
change. Once cheerfully scruffy, with its focus firmly on the fishing industry,
it has been busy expanding, regenerating, and generally smartening itself up.
Its sea soul is still there, but it's acquired a new gloss. Sète was built on a
limestone rock on the slopes of Mont Saint-Clair, with a 25km-long (16-mile)
spit of sand connecting it westward to Cap